By Dennis Lennox, CP Contributor
Yesterday, many Christians observed the Feast of St. James. The day commemorates James the Greater, one of Christ’s 12 apostles.
For more than a millennium, believers have journeyed to Santiago de Compostela, where tradition holds that the apostle either preached in Spain before his martyrdom or that his relics were later translated there. Whatever one’s view of the historicity of those traditions, there is something profoundly moving about following in the footsteps of generations of faithful pilgrims.
The Way of St. James (or, in Spanish, Camino de Santiago) has surged in popularity in recent years. In 2025, a record 530,987 pilgrims completed enough of the route to receive the traditional certificate of completion. Though long associated with Roman Catholicism, an increasing number of Protestants are undertaking the pilgrimage as well.
It has also become something of an industry. While many pilgrims still carry everything they own in a backpack and stay in simple hostels, others opt for a decidedly more comfortable experience. Luxury tour operators now sell packages costing $10,000 or more, complete with five-star hotels, gourmet meals, luggage transfers and support vehicles that follow walkers from village to village.
Then again, this isn’t a modern phenomenon. Medieval pilgrimage had its own luxury market. The wealthy could pay someone else to make the journey on their behalf and still receive an indulgence. It seems not much has changed over the past thousand years.
Earlier this summer, I spent several days in Galicia, the region surrounding Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain.
Santiago is dominated by its great cathedral, the Metropolitan Archcathedral Basilica of Santiago de Compostela. Its soaring interior leaves an unforgettable impression, especially when you consider the countless believers who have worshiped there over the centuries.
The cathedral is also home to one of Christianity’s most remarkable liturgical spectacles: the giant swinging thurible or censer known as the Botafumeiro. Weighing roughly 116 pounds and soaring some 65 feet through the air, it is swung by a team of attendants on select holy days each year, including the patronal feast every July 25.
According to popular tradition, the swinging censer originated during the Middle Ages, when clerics burned vast quantities of incense throughout the cathedral to minimize the awful smell of arriving pilgrims.
Yet I wouldn’t make Santiago de Compostela the centerpiece of a return visit.
Part of that is practical. During my visit, the city felt overwhelmed by tourists. Some had genuinely completed the pilgrimage after walking hundreds of miles across Spain, France or Portugal. They had earned their arrival.
Many others, however, were simply tourists checking another famous destination off their list. The result was a city that often felt crowded to the point of distraction.
There was another disappointment. Santiago de Compostela’s municipal leaders are unabashedly anti-Israel to the point of antisemitism. That simply can’t be ignored. Fortunately, there is plenty to see and do throughout the rest of Galicia. Also, the regional government doesn’t share the same politics.
Leave Santiago de Compostela behind, rent a car, and the crowds disappear quickly. Galicia feels relatively overlooked, at least compared to other parts of Spain where overtourism has become a serious problem.
You can drive from vineyards to medieval monasteries in a single afternoon without ever feeling rushed.
The food and wine scene alone justifies the trip.
Given its location, the cuisine revolves around the sea. Think catch of the day, octopus and scallops. As elsewhere in Spain, dinner rarely begins before 9 p.m. Being accustomed to eating at 6 or 7 o’clock, I found it took a little getting used to.
The region includes two notable wine appellations. Forget the better-known Spanish reds of Rioja; white wines are king here. Along the coast, Rias Baixas produces crisp, mineral-driven albarino wines that pair beautifully with seafood. Inland, Ribeira Sacra is home to vineyards clinging to steep slopes overlooking the Mino and Sil rivers. Besides albarino, the other signature grape is godello. Depending on the producer and style, wines can resemble dry Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc.
One of the best ways to discover the real Galicia is by designing a road trip around Spain’s paradors — historic monasteries, castles and palaces that have been converted by the government into upscale hotels.
Begin with one or two nights at the Parador de Santiago de Compostela. Dating to 1499, when it was founded as lodging for pilgrims, the five-star hotel stands adjacent to the cathedral overlooking Workshop Square. Visit the cathedral — the best time is during the daily mass at 7:30 a.m. — and wander the medieval streets before the crowds arrive.
Then point the car south toward the four-star Parador de Santo Estevo.
Nestled in the heart of the Ribeira Sacra wine appellation, the former monastery offers a completely different experience. Spend a day or two touring wineries, driving scenic roads and visiting ancient churches, including the Romanesque churches of St. Pelagius of Diomondi and St. Stephen of Ribas de Minho.
Continue to Tui. Overlooking the Minho River, which forms the border with Portugal, the 12th-century Cathedral of St. Mary dominates the cityscape. Its crenelated walls and defensive appearance reflect centuries of conflict. Crowds here are noticeably thinner than Santiago de Compostela.
Finish the journey at the Parador de Baiona. Occupying a beautifully preserved medieval fortress perched above the sea, the four-star hotel combines centuries of history with sweeping views. It was my favorite hotel of the entire trip.
Baiona itself occupies an important place in history. In March 1493, the Pinta arrived in its harbor carrying the first news that Christopher Columbus had reached the New World. The town proudly commemorates the moment it became the first place in Europe to learn of this great discovery.
If you go
United offers a seasonal thrice-weekly nonstop flight between its hub at Newark Liberty International Airport and Santiago de Compostela. Meanwhile, Delta partner KLM flies seasonally from Amsterdam, making Galicia reachable from many U.S. airports with just one or two connections.
Unfortunately, it isn’t uncommon for historic churches in the Galician countryside to be locked, which can make visiting them a challenge. You may want to consider hiring a guide who can coordinate with keyholders to arrange access.
Pilgrims and other groups visiting the Metropolitan Archcathedral Basilica of Santiago de Compostela can pay about $500 to have the Botafumeiro swung outside its regularly scheduled feast days. In addition to the regular services, an English-language mass is celebrated daily except Wednesdays at 10:30 a.m.
Protestant worship services are offered by the Anglican Pilgrim Centre in the Church of St. Felix of Solovio. Dating to 997, it is believed to be the oldest church in Santiago de Compostela. During my visit, however, the church never opened, and the scheduled 4 p.m. weekday service wasn’t held. The Anglicans also operate the aptly named Anglican Pilgrim House, a small bed-and-breakfast.
In the Ribeira Sacra appellation, visit Via Romana if only for its incredible views. In Rias Baixas, the tasting experiences at Granbazan, Mar de Frades and Terras Gauda are all highly recommended.
Dennis Lennox writes a travel column for The Christian Post.
Dennis Lennox writes about travel, politics and religious affairs. He has been published in the Financial Times, Independent, The Detroit News, Toronto Sun and other publications. Follow @dennislennox on Twitter.